Ready for a twist from Texas icons Garrison Bros.? The Texas icons have launched a pair of new releases called Ranch Reserve — bourbons finished in oloroso sherry and PX sherry casks, respectively.
As is traditional for many Garrison Brothers releases, both of these whiskeys spend four years in new American white oak barrels before finishing in a sherry cask (either oloroso or PX, natch) — both of which offer a lengthy four years of finishing time, making these 8 year old expressions.
Garrison works regularly with Port casks, but not so much with sherry. How will delicate, wine-forward sherry contrast with the heavy Texasness of Garrison Brothers bourbon? Let’s find out.
Also of note: “PX and Oloroso Sherry Cask Finished, as part of the Ranch Reserve Series, showcase a brand-new bottle design. The front of the bottle bears a designed leather band and walnut colored wax dipping. The “Ranch Reserve” label will be prominently featured. Each expression produced 6,000 bottles. Both will be first available at the distillery and then online and in select markets to follow.” (Single barrel versions have also been announced.)
Garrison Brothers Ranch Reserve Bourbon Oloroso Review
The nose plays things a bit tight: This still has the aggressive woodiness and frontier funk of classic Garrison Bros. expressions, but it’s lightened up just so, with an exotic twist on the nose that evokes incense and saffron. It’s altogether unique for Garrison Brothers. I honestly can’t think of another whiskey from the operation that has quite this level of heady, aromatic heft.
The palate follows the theme — first a punch of hard, fresh oak, followed by a tempering note of floral incense. It’s quite a bizarre twist for a Garrison Bros. product, a chewy sweetness building as the body develops, ultimately evoking notes of toasted coconut, milk chocolate, and a touch of menthol. Increasingly minty on the finish, the whiskey winds its way away from sherry and toward duskier, huskier territory. As things develop, coffee and cherry notes become more prominent and sustained, with a curious hint of pistachio and ample, lingering chocolate on the finish. Definitely a twist on the GB formula. 110 proof. B+ / $150
Garrison Brothers Ranch Reserve Bourbon PX Review
For all the wine and fruit in the Oloroso expression, the PX version blows that out of the water. Stick your nose in the glass and it perks up right away: intensely nutty, leathery, raisiny, it’s a heady experience that pours on baking spice notes, especially cloves and ginger, all filtered through a thick skein of oak charred black.
The palate tells a similar story. Quite sweet and wholly wine-soaked, lush with raisins but more prominently dates and dried figs. Candied and laced with caramel and chocolate, this is one of the most decadent Garrison Brothers whiskeys I’ve ever encountered. Thick and unctuous, the whiskey drapes over the tongue like oil, turning toward maple syrup and more chocolate sauce as it develops. “Luxurious” is a word used by Garrison Bros. to describe this experience, and it couldn’t be more perfect.
The decadence and sweetness don’t last forever. Eventually the whiskey has to come back down to earth, where a sharper, wood-driven character awaits. That Texas heat can only be ignored for so long, and the conclusion is hot and tight, tannic oak rearing back like a bronco. Water helps to tame that finish, but it also perforates what comes before, dulling the fruit, taking the whole affair down a notch. Be careful with your water dosage, and you may well find yourself with a transcendent experience. 109 proof. A- / $150
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