By Richard Thomas
Rating: A-
(Credit: Barrell Craft Spirits)
The latest ultra-aged, Black Label expression from the crafty negociants at Barrell Craft Spirits (BCS) has been dubbed their 22 Year Old Sweet Peat. Drawing on sources of Speyside single malt and Canadian whisky, the blend has a minimum age of 22 years (as per age statement rules) and was finished in a mix of ex-Islay and ex-Jamaican rum casks.
For those who are not into Scotch Whisky, Islay is an island off the western coast of Scotland, due north of Ireland and on the southernmost end of the Inner Hebrides archipelago. Scotch fans with a sense of humor often joke Islay is practically made out of peat, and that peat is famous for its herbaceous, incense-like qualities. This peat is used to fuel fires that warm the malting floors, infusing the malted barley with peat smoke, even though smoking it is not the express purpose. Combined with aging in warehouse often located mere yards from the sea, Islay whiskies have a distinctive and famous character.
After the age statement and sourcing, another eye-catching feature of this Black Label Series release is the proof: it is a hazmat whiskey at 142.34. “Hazmat” refers to airline regulations baring alcohol with 70% or greater purity from being stored in luggage, due to its high flammability. That is no joke, either: Flex-Fuel vehicles supposedly can run on 70% ethanol, albeit with a little knock. So yes, this is a whiskey that, if taken without dilution, will make you wince, put hair on your chest, and blow your taste buds so you can’t appreciate the notes I am about to share.
The Whiskey
The color on this pour is gold, very in keeping with its Scots side. The nose is musty, leading with toasted cereals and butterscotch. Behind that are hints of vanilla and honey, but only hints. Nice, but not much to write home about.
The palate is where this hybrid whiskey really kicks off. The sip opens with a wave of honey, followed hard by a smoky current. As the liquid sits on your tongue, the sweet aspect splits between honey and floral pipe tobacco. A second wave, this time of spice, crashes on the back end. The sweetness dissolves into simply syrup, the smoke wafts away, and cinnamon and pepper land with a thud. The toasty cereals reappear briefly on the finish, but disappear to leave a slow, sweet and spicy fade out.
The Price
The Black Label 22 Year Old Sweet Peat will set you back $200.
