Not a typo. “Kentucke County,” with an “e,” is the name of the product. It’s a new sub-label from 15 Stars, which has been spinning off other “Kentucky heritage” brands like First West of late, with two expressions available at launch. (“Both in commemorative, collectible bottles,” presumably because of the “250th anniversary” sticker below the front label.)
What’s this Kentucke all about?
In 1776, the same year the American colonies declared their independence, Kentucke County was established as Virginia’s western frontier county. The region would later evolve into the Kentucke District, within which Bourbon County was created, and Bourbon whiskey was named. Kentucke County by 15 Stars revives the first naming of Kentucky that started it all.
“Bourbon, America and Kentucky all began together,” said Ricky Johnson, co-founder of 15 Stars. “We carry the spirit and craftsmanship of early Kentucky in our bones and express it in every bottle, delivering the aged flavor of whiskeys often priced twice as high.”
OK then!
Kentucke County Bourbon 6 Years Old
Pretty simple: Two Kentucky straight bourbon whiskeys, both with minimum ages of 6 years, are blended into this release. Neither seems overly exciting, the finished product here offering a basic construction that won’t really rock the boat. Aromas of peanut and popcorn dominate, with a punch of clove adding a bold spice to the nose. Brown butter, perhaps a little scorched, adds a savory note, before things turn a touch beefy.
The palate is similarly, well, a bit flat. Doughy overtones of roasted almonds and peanut are downright immersive, ultimately taking the whiskey into somewhat muddy territory. Vanilla notes feel blunt and underdeveloped, the finish coming across as underdeveloped and a bit rustic, layered with elements of hemp rope, wet cigarettes, and horse saddle. Fine as a mixer. Otherwise forgettable. 90 proof. B- / $38
Kentucke County American Whiskey 12 Years Old
Here we have an oddity: A blend of straight bourbon and American whiskey which was distilled from a bourbon mashbill and aged 7 years in second-use oak before an additional 5 years in new charred oak. Distilled in Kentucky and Indiana.
This is a more complex experience from the start, fruitier but also more heavily punctuated with barrel char and a meaty underbelly… but the aromatics don’t tell you the whole story.
While the nose gets increasingly savory as it sits in the glass, the palate meanders its way toward fruit, a blend of strawberry and baked apple melding with sesame paste and dusted with cinnamon. Malted milk, well-torched banana slices dipped in caramel, and flambeed pears add some secondary character, but those expecting anything approaching a 12 year old bourbon experience will come away sorely disappointed, as a flood of peanut butter on the finish wipes away most of the proceedings. I left the experience with a sigh. 90 proof. B / $58
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