By Richard Thomas
Rating: B+
(Credit: Richard Thomas)
For decades, the sole preserver of the Irish pot still whiskey tradition was New Midleton, best known as the maker of Jameson’s. When the world’s whiskey industries hit rock bottom in the 1970s, Ireland was hit hardest and they consolidated down to just two distilleries: New Midleton, which was purpose-built as the home for so many consolidated brands like Paddy’s and Powers; and Bushmills, which strictly speaking is in Ireland, but also Northern Ireland (hence the UK). It was Midleton that chose to stick with pot still whiskey; had the staff there gone the other way, the style would have disappeared for decades, perhaps permanently.
Pot still whiskey was an 18th Century response to the British crown’s efforts to tax the Irish whiskey industry, which was the world leader in those days. Thwarted by evasion in previous taxation measures, Whitehall imposed a tax on malted barley. This hit brewers as well as distillers, but the distillers responded by making what had been malt whiskey with unmalted barley. Later on, some added (untaxed) wheat and/or oats to the grain bill as well. The unmalted barley gave the whiskey a heavier, spicier flavor, and became the signature of Ireland as the Scots brought their malts to market in the mid- and late 19th Century. So, the name “pot still whiskey” does not really refer to the use of pot stills (the only still type in use at the time), although the style absolutely requires the use of copper pot stills.
Irish Distillers, owners of New Midleton, used the pot still whiskey as part of their three blended brands: Jameson, Paddy’s and Powers. Their identities were pegged to just how much pot still was in the blend. Later on, a negotiant in Ireland became known for bottling Midleton’s handiwork as a single pot still expression in the form of The Spots. Irish Distillers added Redbreast later, and as whiskey revived globally during the 2010s these brands became known as the bedrock of single pot still whiskey. New Midleton is no longer the only distillery in Ireland making pot still whiskey, but they are still the most identified with it.
Now Jameson, the standard bearer at New Midleton, has joined the party. As part of the Jameson Reserve Series, the company has released Jameson Distiller’s Batch, which draws on single pot still whiskey stocks aged in ex-bourbon and Oloroso sherry casks, as well as new Irish, European and American oak casks. The whiskey is bottled at 92 proof.
The Whiskey
The whiskey is familiar to me, as I remember not just Jameson, but Powers and Paddy’s before it was bought by Sazerac. It’s just more of what I liked from those three of the five quintessential Irish blends. The color, however, is darker. Instead of golden, it comes in at dull copper.
The nose leads with musty straw, but this takes a step back with a second whiff, coming into better balance with toffee, cinnamon graham cracker and apple. The sweet aspect rolls over into honey and vanilla on the palate, buttressed by toasty cereals and a spice blend of clove and nutmeg. The finish rolls off a touch woody, tannic and spicy.
The Price
This one is a good bit cheaper than any of The Spots or Redbreast expression, listed at $50.
