Every so often, a bottle comes along that refuses to sit neatly in any category, and this Cadenhead’s release is exactly that. Labelled under the intriguing name Putachieside, a nod to the Victorian-era district of old Aberdeen where WM Cadenhead was first established, this is not a distillery at all but a piece of history dressed up in a beautiful, distinctive label. What lies inside, however, is something even more curious: a 21-year-old single malt that legally cannot be called Scotch whisky.
The reason for that unusual designation is the cask. This is Benrinnes liquid, matured for its first 15 years before being transferred into old red Spanish vermouth barrels. Because vermouth is a botanical wine, maturing spirit in those casks means the finished product must wear the words “Scottish spirit drink” on the front rather than Scotch whisky. It is a technicality, but it tells you exactly what makes this bottle worth exploring. At 50.8% ABV, natural colour and non-chill-filtered, it is presented in a modest 20cl format for around £30. That may sound steep at first glance, but for a 21-year-old spirit at nearly 51% strength, the maths starts to make a great deal of sense.
Benrinnes is a distillery that independent bottlers have a field day with, and it is easy to see why. On the nose this is surprisingly minty and fresh, all minted toffee, buttery sweetness and a gentle gingery spice reminiscent of Angostura bitters. Given time in the glass, subtle botanical notes emerge, from cassia bark to gentian root and a lovely lift of orange oil.
On the palate, it demands patience. The honeyed, minted ginger toffee arrives first, followed by a delightful flash of rhubarb and strawberry in the middle, before those earthy, herbaceous vermouth influences take hold. There is liquorice, wormwood and even a touch of oregano, all wrapped in a wonderfully coating texture and a long, gently warming finish.
What impresses me most is how this whisky evolves. When I first opened it, the fruit led the charge. Months later, it has settled into those fresh, botanical, minted toffee notes with just enough bitterness to keep things interesting. This is a genuinely well-rounded and unusual bottle, and Cadenhead simply does not bottle duds. For me it earns a solid eight out of ten.
Would you take a chance on a whisky that cannot legally call itself whisky? I would love to hear your thoughts.
Check out my full tasting and review on YouTube.
Read the full article at Why This 21-Year-Old Benrinnes in Vermouth Casks Is the Most Interesting £30 I’ve Spent
