Earlier this year The Glenlivet introduced their newest permanent expression; a 40-year-old single malt that represents four decades of patient waiting and careful cask management. It may be a new part of the “core range” but at $5,000 (£4,600) this is far from a “standard” scotch for your drinks cabinet. It feels like we are seeing more high age-statement releases at the moment. Just last month we saw an 85-year-old Glenlivet released by Gordon & Macphail. Scarcity with age is guaranteed, but does extreme age always equal extreme quality?
The Long Game of Whisky Making
Creating a 40-year-old whisky requires more than just forgetting about casks in a warehouse. Cask Master Kevin Balmforth oversees this delicate process, where time can be both friend and enemy. “There’s no pre-ordained destiny for a cask,” Balmforth explains. “We don’t set out saying, ‘This one will be a 40 year old.’ It’s more about nurturing the spirit and seeing how it evolves.”
The decision to create this particular 40-year-old began six years ago. “The batch was maturing in a way that we knew it could handle extremely long aging,” Balmforth notes. This early recognition allowed the team to begin the complex process of sourcing bespoke sherry casks and planning the intricate finishing process.
The Challenge of Extreme Age
Managing casks for four decades presents unique challenges that don’t exist with younger whiskies. The notorious “angels’ share” continues to claim its due, steadily reducing liquid volume while increasing the ratio of wood to whisky. “This can lead to an over-oaked character, where the wood tannins dominate the delicate, mature whisky flavours we’ve nurtured for decades,” Balmforth warns.
The solution involves constant vigilance and subtle interventions. Moving casks within the warehouse can influence maturation speed. “Lowering a cask in the warehouse can sometimes slow down the maturation and encourage sweeter notes to shine through,” he explains. However, such moves risk accelerating alcohol loss, creating a delicate balancing act.
Custom Sherry Finishing Takes Time
The finishing process uses a bespoke blend of Oloroso and Pedro Ximénez sherries in custom Jerez casks. This wasn’t a quick decision. The team experimented with various sherry combinations before settling on this particular blend. “Oloroso brings a slightly sharper, drier character, while PX adds a richer sweetness,” Balmforth describes.
Contrary to expectations, the finishing process took over three years. “People often think of finishing as a quick process, but with single malt, especially at 40 years old, it’s a gradual evolution,” he says. “For the first year or two, The Glenlivet base barely changed. It took the full three years before we started to see that elevation of flavour.”
The interaction between spirit and wood continues evolving throughout the 30-40 year period, though at a slower pace. Existing flavors deepen rather than new ones emerging. Balmforth uses pears as an example: “At 30 years, you might have bright, juicy pear notes. Over the next 10 years, those pear notes can transform into something more like poached pears in syrup, richer and more decadent.”
The final product delivers notes of poached plums, charred orange, dark cherries, warming spice, and braised red apples. The sherry finish contributes cinnamon, nutmeg, and dried raisin notes, culminating in what the distillery describes as a “rewardingly long and sweet finish.”
The Price Point?
With the number of high age-statement scotch releases appearing on the market it can be easy to dismiss a 40 year old as common. But there is a difference between producing a limited edition 40 year old and maintaining a permanent annual release. As a permanent core range addition, the Glenlivet 40 year old represents significant commitment from the distillery. It requires decades of forward planning and substantial stock dedication. But does that justify the $5,000 price point?
The short answer is yes. The longer answer is it depends what you want in a whisky.
Yes, $5,000 is expensive for a whisky and so this will not be for everyone. But this is a beautifully designed whisky in terms of taste and presentation. Balmforth has perfected this whisky over years while the bottle itself has been designed specifically for the release and is striking enough to make a statement in a collection. In my opinion it is by far the nicest looking 40-year-old scotch in that respect. It is also right in the middle of the price range for this age; the Glenfarclas 40 year old is cheaper, but could be mistaken for the 10 year old without its bright red box and its similar for the Balvenie 40 year old, which is a bit more expensive and yet still relies on a standard bottle and (very) nice box.
Is it the most cost effective way to drink scotch, no of course not. But if you are looking for a premium whisky that balances presentation, price and quality then the Glenlivet is a clear winner for me.
Read the full article at The Glenlivet 40 Year Old: Is It Worth It?
