I’ve had the opportunity to talk to New Riff co-founder Jay Erisman about many different products from his cutting-edge Covington-based distillery. Of all the whiskeys he’s helped to create over the years, he says Balboa Rye is special to him because it was the very first New Riff whiskey to experiment with an heirloom grain. Once popular nearly a century ago, Balboa rye slowly disappeared with the growth of commodity grain. When New Riff’s corn farmer introduced Erisman to the varietal, he jumped at the chance to distill it, releasing the first batch in 2019.

The whiskey is made from the same 95% rye recipe used in the standard New Riff rye. It’s also aged the same length of time (at least four years) and bottled in bond without chill filtration. The only difference – which is a big difference – is the rye varietal. Because of its scarcity, New Riff has only released limited runs of Balboa Rye with the last coming out well over a year ago. Balboa production, however, has expanded according to Erisman, so fans can expect more of this one on the market in coming years. Let’s check it out.

Unsurprisingly, this is a totally different rye whiskey than New Riff’s flagship. The aroma is light but full of rustic grain notes: warm rye bread, whole cloves, and dried herbs. All that raw rye spice is a bit sharp initially but softens with time in the glass, revealing molasses, fresh oak, and a hint of sweet dill. On the palate, Balboa is a bit bolder than its proof would suggest with an initial rush of warm baking spice and peppery oak that gives way on the midpalate to gentler, fruitier notes of sweet black cherry, red licorice, and a little sassafras. The finish is light but lengthy with chili pepper and cooling wintergreen. It’s a fun rye with a unique profile that develops the more it opens. And at this price point, you don’t have to feel bad using it as a cocktail base in your next Manhattan… which I highly recommend.

100 proof.

A- / $55

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