Cabernet franc from a Greek island? This unexpected, dense red comes from grapes grown on 35-year-old bush vines, and I highly recommend some airtime before you really tuck into it. While a bit brashly sweet at first, showcasing raspberry and cherry notes, the wine soon settles into a groove that showcases a more complex collection of flavors spanning anise, black tea, and green peppercorn. A lingering woodiness clings to the experience, though time in glass allows that to temper. On the finish, the wine is quite raisin-forward with touches of strawberry-rhubarb jam and a surprising but crystal-clear late arrival of pistachio.

Greek red wines are not widely praised, but En Arhi may well have me rethinking that stereotype.

A- / $25

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