As a dedicated fan of Johnnie Walker Black Label, I bought the Black Ruby expression with genuine excitement. The concept of a sweeter, fruitier take on a classic, matured in bourbon, red wine, and sherry-seasoned casks, seemed perfectly up my street. The brand is clearly aiming for a newer audience, and I respect that. However, after spending considerable time with the bottle, I have found it to be a confusing and ultimately mismatched whisky that struggles to find its identity.
On the nose, the promise of ‘the sweeter side of black’ is certainly present. You are greeted with pleasant aromas of red fruits like raspberry and strawberry, along with honeycomb and a hint of dark chocolate. However, this is where the experience starts to feel unbalanced. For me, these delicate notes from the specialty casks are struggling to fight through a dominant grain whisky component. While the grain provides a basic caramel backbone, it feels like it quashes the more interesting malt and cask influences before they can truly shine.
This imbalance is even more pronounced on the palate. While the red berry, toffee, and chocolate notes do amalgamate briefly on the finish, the journey there is dominated by an intense and youthful grain character. I suspect the grain whisky here is quite young, perhaps only four or five years old, and it simply washes away those juicier, richer flavours the bottle promises. The result is a profile that feels a little thin and synthetic, lacking the integral flavour needed to stand up on its own, let alone in the cocktails for which it is suggested.
This brings me to the product’s price and confusing position in the market. At a higher price than the classic 12 year old Black Label, this non-age-stated expression is difficult to justify. It creates confusion for consumers who see the “Black Label” name and might expect its signature smoke, only to find it severely muted. It feels like a product without a clear purpose, caught between the legacy of its name and a new direction it never fully commits to. Why not simply call it Johnnie Walker Ruby?Russell’s Reserve 10: The Bourbon I Should Have Bought Years Ago
Ultimately, Johnnie Walker Black Ruby is a disappointing release. It feels like a missed opportunity, a whisky that is less than the sum of its parts. It is a confusing, unbalanced dram that I cannot recommend, especially at its current price. While I will finish my bottle, it will be reluctantly.
Perhaps, as much of the marketing will suggest, it holds up better in a cocktail.
What are your thoughts on brands releasing modern twists on their classic expressions?
For a more detailed breakdown and to see the whisky for yourself, you can watch my full video on the subject.
Read the full article at Johnnie Walker Black Ruby: A Confusing Twist on a Classic I Wanted to Love
