While Germany is still famous for its car production, wines, and beers, there is another aspect that is unstoppable and on the rise: whisky made in Germany. Being more than just a sign of origin, it also stands for precision, durability, and innovation. Popping up since the 1990s, the German whisky scene is a mixture of tradition, craftsmanship, and innovation.
A Different Focus
Claudio Schöller. Co-founder of Spheric Spirits GmbH, refuses to call his company German, because “our productions take place in distilleries in Norway, Scotland, England, Germany, and Mexico. Other places soon to come”.
Spheric Spirits started as a micro distillery based on a “phantom” or “gypsy” concept. That is, they do not operate an official distillery, but Claudio and partner Benedict John Skelton are ‘travelling distillers’ creating a symbiosis between their own distillates and independent bottlings with a focus on malting, brewing, fermentations, and experimental yeasts in addition of just “distillery, age and cask”.
“Due to our extensive travelling we possess a well-educated palate and flavour portfolio. Our greatest pleasure in doing our work is the formation of close partnerships with our colleagues around the globe.”
Spin-Offs
“Whisky in Germany started in most cases as spin-offs of German distilleries producing their traditional products: liqueur, obstler, korn,” said Claudio. “But we also have spin-offs from breweries. It is true that the clean distilling style, which is absolutely essential for fruit distillation, is miles apart from a Scottish single malt distilling style. But we have lately seen a remarkable learning curve. By now, some distilleries – partly with the advice of Spheric Spirits – have overtaken Scotland in terms of ‘dirty’ production methods.”
16 States
Tim A. Bohlen, founder of indie 16 States, a subsidiary of Spheric Spirits, bottles German whiskies only. He saw German distillers struggle to figure out how to make a start with this grain-based product.
“It’s worth acknowledging that the early years of German whisky were somewhat inconsistent,” he said. “Some of the initial releases struggled to meet international expectations, and this early reputation still lingers. Even I was sceptical at first, and only in recent years have I truly come to appreciate the potential of German whisky.”
Wu DRAM Clan
Seb Jaeger, one of the three members of Wu DRAM Clan (WDC), has been in the business as an independent bottler for some years now and saw distillers get a grip on the process of whisky distilling by trial and error.
“Whisky in Germany has a somewhat difficult reputation, even within the country itself,” said Seb. “Let’s be honest—we are a nation of distillers. In my town, we have a bakery, a butcher’s shop, but over 300 distilling rights. That means that anyone who has windfall fruit is likely to distill their own schnapps. Many distillers jumped on the whisky hype and repurposed their schnapps stills for whisky production.
“The whisky from these stills (which allow precise temperature control) ended up being too close to the raw grain—it often tasted more like a grain-based schnapps rather than whisky, which tends to have a more complex, even slightly “rebellious” character. Over time, some distilleries adapted and invested in pot stills modeled after traditional Scottish designs. Those who have found success internationally.”
The Future
About the future of German whisky, Claudio thinks that German whisky will “emancipate itself from its Anglo-Saxon idols and hopefully find its niche. Possible positionings might include craftiness, regionality, diversity, and playfulness. Germany needs to play its strengths, and not try to imitate”.
Tim A. Bohlen is convinced that in ten years there will be a “vibrant, respected and internationally recognised German whisky scene. The foundations are already in place: passionate distilleries, bold experiments, and an increasingly curious audience. Now it’s about deepening our strengths: prioritising quality over yield, individuality over conformity, and craft over standardisation.”
“Seeing is believing,” says Seb Jeager. “It all depends on defining a clear vision—what style should be represented, and what direction should be taken? Factors such as quantity, quality, and cask management will be the key levers for success. Young German distillers are passionate about these parameters, but in some cases, a generational shift may still be needed to truly embrace whisky as a core product.”
Talking to Claudio, Seb, and Tim gives me hope that whisky Made in Germany is still under construction and German whisky makers are indeed in a learning curve. The first signs are positive; I just have to exercise some patience.
Read the full article at Beyond Imitation: German Whisky Insiders on Breaking Free from the ‘Schnapps’ Stigma
