By Richard Thomas
Rating: B+
(Credit: Suntory Global)
When Japanese brewer and conglomerate Kirin announced they were putting Four Roses up for sale, the most amusing (and predictable) response in internet bourbon forums was the chorus of racially-tinged “the Japanese owned Kirin.” What people like myself mused was “wait until they find out the Japanese own Beam.” Ha!
But the reality is much larger than that. Suntory Global Spirits (formerly Beam Suntory) is one of the world’s most gigantic of drinks giants, with fingers in just about every sector imaginable, including Scotch Whisky. The company owns such esteemed Islay distilleries as Laphroaig and Bowmore, and a clutch of other Scotch distilleries and brands besides. When one has even a medium-sized foothold in the Scotch industry, then one has the ready means to create a new blended whisky brand, which is exactly what Suntory did in mid-2023.
The company charged their chief corporate-level Scotch blender, Calum Faser, to work with their Japanese people to concoct the new Scotch blended whisky, Ardray. In terms of sourcing, in addition to the Suntory-owned properties, the brand is also a partnership with Edrington, owners of The Macallan, Famous Grouse and Highland Park. So, the gimmick behind the new brand is a blended Scotch Whisky crafted by a Japanese team led by a Scotsman, but it’s also a good bit stronger than the typical Scotch at 48% ABV. That combination is probably why it has described by more than a few as a lightly peated, fuller bodied Hibiki.
The Scotch
My pour sat in my glass with a pale yellow coloring, like dry-but-new straw. The nose was a light one, offering up pears, vanilla and a scorched cinnamon stick. The flavor palate evolves from that beginning, leading with a dry sliver of wood before bringing the pears, cinnamon (not charred this time), a hint of pineapple, and a dollop of honey forward, and finally turning to a dulled whiff of smoke. The finish hung on to a some of the flavor notes, balancing an almost spoiled, but otherwise vague tropical fruit note with a trace of smoke.
The bottle is as impressive as its pedigree and intent, which is to say it reflects its origins and intent quite well. As sometimes happened, I dithered on whether this was a B+ or A- bottle, but being an opponent of grade inflation, whenever that happens I default to B+. Still, it’s worth mentioning the split decision.
The Price
Expect to pay $85 a bottle for Ardray.
