By Randall H. Borkus
Rating: C+
(Credit: Redwood Empire)
Redwood Empire Whiskey is located in the heart of the Russian River Valley wine region of Sonoma County, California. The name “Emerald Giant” comes from the fastest growing of the redwoods, a real tree that can be visited. The distillery focuses on sustainability, thus, for every bottle sold, Redwood Empire plants a tree.
The Whiskey
A distinctive rye profile often comes from the West—whether in the Rockies, along the Pacific Coast, or from distilleries surrounded more by pine trees than rickhouses. I think of it as herbal, cooling, and alpine; as one colleague described it, like a mountain breeze. Redwood Empire Emerald Giant Rye fits neatly within that style.
Emerald Giant is a composite blend of 4- to 7-year-old barrels with some barrels approaching eight years old. The mash bill is very rye-forward and no corn at 92% rye, 5% malted barley and 3% wheat. In terms of the experience, it wastes little time showing exactly where the recipe flavor profile lands.
Emerald Giant color resembles a new copper penny dancing in my Glencairn. The color is clean, inviting and harbors a slight elegance. The nose jumps in with surprisingly fruity notes. First sweet red berries arrive before quickly overtaken by an assertive wave of wintergreen, menthol, pine sap, and a hint of loose leaf Earl Grey tea. The herbal character here is unmistakably western rye whiskey for me. Less of a Kentucky-like cinnamon-and-clove spice cabinet and more of a cool mountainous freshness right up front. Traditional wintergreen rye notes first, then a crisp and cooling essence without any medicinal qualities. From there, the whiskey softens considerably on the mid-palate as chamomile tea, honeysuckle, sweet citrus and hints orange blossom emerge. The overall mouthfeel is relatively light-bodied with a satin-like texture that keeps the whiskey refreshing rather than weighty. The finish is medium, yet holding its place on my palate well, carrying splashes of subtle wintergreen, chamomile, and soft herbal tea notes.
What makes Redwood Empire Emerald Giant Rye Whiskey interesting is the way the floral and herbal notes continuously trade places with one another. Just as the sweeter elements begin taking over, the rye’s earthy chamomile and mint-driven character returns with hints of pear and more soft herbal tea notes.
Emerald Giant is not a rye whiskey trying to overpower with spice, proof, or oak extraction. The true appeal comes from its restraint and soft flavor notes. It tastes the way a dense northern forest feels when you walk out first morning— cool, wet pine needles, freshwater mist, and an earthy silence disturbed only by a wind moving through trees.
I enjoyed this rye whiskey, though it is softer than I like. I doubt if it could hold up in a cocktail of my liking, but as a refreshing rye whiskey, it’s smooth and drinkable. If you appreciate herbal-forward, western styled rye whiskey, you will find this a particularly sold specimen.
The Price
The suggested retail price is $39.99 and as low as $29.99 at Binny’s in Chicago for a 750ml bottle.
