There are certain bottles that carry a weight beyond what is in the glass, and this 1987 Talisker is one of them. At 39 years old, drawn from a single refill sherry butt and limited to just 451 bottles at 51.4%, it is a genuine piece of history.
But its real significance lies in what it represents: this is the last ever Talisker that will be bottled by Gordon & MacPhail. That fact alone explains why it has sold out almost everywhere in the UK, and it is the reason I approached this pour with a mix of excitement and, honestly, a little nervousness.
Independently bottled Talisker has never been the most common thing in the world. I remember my days working at The Whisky Shop, when younger expressions from the likes of Hunter Laing would come through, but something of this age is a rare beast indeed. And as I have said before, if you want anyone bottling your old whisky, Gordon & MacPhail is probably the name you want on the label.
On the nose, this leans into a classic sherry profile far more than the Glen Grant I looked at recently. There is rum and raisin fudginess, melted milk chocolate, that Nutella hazelnut feel, and a wonderful streak of exotic fruit running through mango, pineapple, and fresh green apple. I searched for the smoke and found only the faintest tingle, which is exactly what you would expect from something approaching four decades in the cask.
The palate tells a different story. This is where it becomes unmistakably Talisker. All the peppery, meaty, robust spice we love is there, opening with an almost Reuben sandwich quality of slow-cooked brisket, brine and pickles, before a huge slab of bright orange jelly cuts through. The chocolate softens, but that chilli pepper smokiness we all associate with the distillery arrives with real potency.
On later sips, it turns beautifully botanical, all pine resin, mint and coriander seed, thick and chewy and clinging to every part of the mouth.
I have said before that Talisker as a distillery feels a little lacklustre right now, with many people falling out of love with the standard bottlings. This is the perfect rebuttal. It is a stunning, elegant old whisky, and it earns a nine out of ten from me. What was your first ever Talisker, and does the smoke still win you over the way it does me?
To see my full tasting of Gordon & Macphail’s final Talisker, check out my YouTube video.
Read the full article at The Last Ever Gordon & MacPhail Talisker: A Fitting Farewell to a Legend
